The post archive of

Venita Coelho

retired from a hectic life in media to a quiet Goan paradise – or so she thought. In no time at all she found herself an accidental activist, fighting to save the land. She protests, writes books and movies, and tries to stay sane. | Email Venita

November 6, 2010

A Creatively Fulfilling Life Awaits You in Goa (if You Want It)

Along with hordes of tourists, whackos and weirdos, Goa seems to attract more than its fair share of creative people.

They come from around the world and are thick on the ground. Between my village and the next, if you chuck a stone, you are likely to hit a Booker nominee, another writer who is a Padma Shri, two published novelists, a published poet, a respected abstract artist, an innovative industrial designer, several columnists, a studio potter, many architects —and possibly Amitabh Bachchan, who recently bought a house here.

I moved to Goa with the firm resolve of writing the Great Indian Novel.

That continues to be a work-in-progress, but the writing has just got better over the years. As many creative people from around the world are discovering, Goa makes the perfect setting for creativity.

Stuck for an idea, I take long meandering walks by the river, with gulmohar flowers turning the path red in the summer, and loads of little frogs keeping me company in the monsoon. You can rest your eyes on a hundred shades of green in the paddy fields, or turn them to where smoke rises from evening fires and shrouds the trees. There is always the beach to lie on and think up stories in the sun.

During the many hectic years I spent in Mumbai, I rarely, if ever, knew when there was a full moon. Urbanites don’t raise their eyes to the sky too often. And if they do, they don’t see stars but the orange haze that hangs over big cities.

But in Goa everyone knows when a full moon is around the corner. The dogs howl all night.The cats stay out late. The crickets yell their heads off. Even the crabs grow fat. And writers find themselves sitting late at their computers madly trying to get down all that their frenzied brain is seething with.

I understood the link between the moon and creativity only when it was demonstrated for me cycle after cycle. Now I fit the full moon into my writing schedule.

Having chucked it all to become a hermit in Goa, you find that you are actually at a great creative intersection. This came home to me when I found myself at a dinner with Amitav Ghosh, Orhan Pamuk, Kiran Desai, Maria Aurora Couto, Mario Miranda and half the writers in town.

Two Booker-nominated novels were written in Goa (Ghosh’s Sea of Poppies and Damon Galgut’s The Good Doctor). I wouldn’t be surprised if more were in progress right now. A very supportive community exists and there are regular meetings, interactions and discussions.

This community draws on an established and vibrant tradition of literature.

The first printing press in Asia was set up here by the Portuguese. Goan literature spans 13 languages. The main language, Konkani, has four different scripts, and Goan writers are known for their contribution to Portuguese literature.

For such a tiny state, the literary output is tremendous. Now the Goan writer finds himself having genial discussions about the art of writing with counterparts from around the world. Over a measure of feni, of course.

Read the entire article here.

October 18, 2010

Accidental Activist: What Are You Willing to Die For?

What would you be willing to give your life for? That might seem like an odd question, but it has been on my mind.

The Naxals and Maoists are constantly in the news as the war between them and the government escalates. The people who the police have arrested seem a world removed from Maoist rhetoric. Instead, they seem to be people like us.

First there was Kobad Gandhi. He was brought up in a rich Parsi family, lived on Malabar hill, and had the best of education.

Still he chose to throw it all up and go fight on the other side of the fence. His wife was a professor of sociology in Nagpur University. Neither of them fall remotely near the stereotype of a naxal as the government projects it – dangerous lawless anarchists.

And a couple of years ago there was excitement over the alleged naxalite with a Goan connection.

Arun Ferreira was arrested from Bandra and held by the police. Arun was educated at St. Xaviers college and again, a world removed from what you would imagine a naxal to be.

There are more Goan connections. Vernon Gonsalves is being held as a suspected leader of the CPI (ML). Arrested along with him was K D Rao – a practising lawyer and office bearer of the Indian Association of Peoples Lawyers.

Continue reading →

October 14, 2010

Ambushed by Nina Paley’s ‘Sita Sings the Blues’

I was ambushed!

At one in the morning with a deadline on a column to go, the last thing I should have done was click on the link that took me to Nina Paley’s film ‘Sita sings the blues’. As they say – genius is 1% inspiration and 99% not being distracted by the internet.

But having got there – I sat for one and a half hours while the most exciting bit of animation that I have seen in a long time unravelled on screen. Paley has taken the colours and the kitsch images of Indian gods and goddesses and converted them into riveting cinema.

Not only is the animation outstanding, the script is tongue-in-cheek, many layered and hilariously funny. Sita does sing the blues – literally, in Annette Hanshaws voice. The story of the Ramayan is narrated by three contemporary Indian’s who’s grasp on the tale is not very firm. And through it all weaves Nina’s own story of being dumped unexpectedly by her husband. An event that made her see the story of Sita in a brand new light.

Watch this for an edgy, engaging take on the Ramayan:

October 5, 2010

Introducing Venita: My Memento Mori

About a year ago, I decided that I wanted to simplify my life.

So I went ahead and did what I’d been wanting to do for many years. I shaved my head.


This did not come easy to someone who’d had hair down to her knees for more than half her life. But I never realised to what extent hair defined gender, personality and nationality until I took the extreme step of knocking it all off.

The gender confusion is a bit forgiveable. People look at my head, then drop a surreptitious look at my chest to check exactly what I am. Men shove me out of the way in crowded places then do a double take and say ‘Oh sorry!’

It is only when you lose it that you realise how much courtesy is actually extended to women on the roads and public spaces of Goa. Of all the states that I have lived in across India, Goa is the one state where as a woman you don’t have to continuously battle the male gaze or wonder whether that dress is going to raise eyebrows.

Generations of hippies in mostly nothing have innured our locals.

The nationality confusion was a bit of a shock, though. Suddenly I had little old men snarling at me as they over took.

I lip read in astonishment as drivers flung foul words my way. Continue reading →

October 27, 2010

Shhh, Don’t Tell Anyone: Goa’s Many Secrets

It took me many years of living in Goa to realize just how many levels it exists at. You are bounded by secrets on every side.

The hippies have theirs, the newly arrived Russians have theirs, and the Goans keep many of their own. I decided to research this post by asking everyone I met in the week to tell me a secret.

Continue reading →

November 2, 2010

The Mighty Goan Warrior

I want to introduce you to the mighty Goan warrior.

The world knows the susegaad Goan, Hindi films have made the perpetually drunk Goan famous, and the hospitable Goan is touted by the tourist industry. But the Goan warrior?

Claude Alvares paid tribute to him at the recently held GBA rally at Azad Maidan.  He doesn’t look like much. In fact he looks like an ordinary man, but his powers are legendary.

He has taken on the might of government, big business and various lobbies and emerged victorious. Even as the state of Goa disheartens us, perhaps it is time to remember that there is hope. Battles have been fought and won.

Here are some of the battles the Mighty Goan Warrior has emerged victorious from.

Continue reading →